Erinzy's adventures...

It started with another day alongside the spectacular lake we had begun to call our home. It is our second day at Kande Beach - the sun shines brights, the wind has stilled so the lake this morning is glass still. It's peaceful and serene - nothing as yet shattering the atmosphere. Today we are visiting another orphanage and school - armed with more supplies - they've come in very handy we set off with the unfortunate knowledge that it is still holidays and hence, unlikely we will get to see many children. Though I am betting we will certainly be found by some children as we pass through the nearby villages.

I hate to admit it, especially after painting such a beautiful picture - but today has already been quite eventful - not even 7.30am - a quick stroll from our campsite to the Chief's house - see us all witnessing the preparation of the nights dinner - hog on a spit. And when I say preparation - I mean the pig was still squealing when we arrived - I think you're able to catch the drift!

From Lake Malawi we've had two massive drive days - allowing us to reach an ultimate destination of Dar es Salaam - for one night before venturing over high seas (jokes) to the stunningly gorgeous Zanzibar! The drive - whilst long was a good opportunity for some game viewing as we take the main road literally through the middle of a massive park. Like we see Kangaroos hop annoyingly onto the road back home - we saw Zebras trotting alongside the truck, giraffes, elephants, wilderbeest and buffalo. Not to mention the usual over abundance of Baboons which we had all formed a love-hate relationship with.

**Jealousy warning**

Zanzibar is - forgive the language - FREAKING AWESOME! We started off in Stone Town - and all I can say is WOW! The historical side of the town is nothing if not vast and varied. The architecture speaks for itself - wandering through the cobbled streets of the town you cannot help but marvel at the ingenuity of it all - the buildings are all so intricately designed - the doors are incredible - and I could easily spend hours the wandering and gazing at the designs.

What gets us all about Stone Town is that is a one way city. We are staying perhaps a five minute walk from the ferry - yet we get a bus that takes us the entire length around the town and about 20 mintues - needless to say it was a quick and painless way to have a look around.

Whilst in Stone Town we went on a spice tour- much to most peoples surprise it was actually quite interesting and somewhat entertaining! We started off with a quick lunch of pilau - new to most - delighted to have some food I easily recognise I have quickly encouraged everyone that they will want to try- after all it's included how could you not!?
From lunch we venture around the town- this is my time to gaze longingly at the beautifully adorned doors- And quite a few of the the women's clothing stores along the way! I won't lie I already know what I'll be doing in the morning- the shops are about twenty metres from our hostel. But to the present solemnity of the history of Stone Town- that it was an epitomising component of the slave trade for so long is terrifying. Particularly when our ever diligent guide insists on taking us into slave chambers. Barely high enough to sit up in, we sit in stunned silence learning that up to 75 child slaves were kept  in the claustrophobic precipice we were huddled into.

The spice tour itself was nothing if not informative, who would have known that the cinnamon tree had three different scent components!? Probably the most fascinating (or memorable) facts we would learn. From recognising spices and their origins to wearing sunglasses made from pineapple tops or bags and hats cleverly created by the locals and taste testing local fruits we wouldn't be able to find elsewhere. 

The mood of the entire Zanzibar experience quickly changes as we head to the North Beaches... our white beeeaches as they will become fondly remembered. Here we no longer are restricted by local custom and as we all quickly don our togs and head for the surf it suddenly feels like we are all well and truly on holiday. The massages were relaxing, the cocktails begin to flow quickly, and cheaply through "Happy Hours", and the excitement of being in what felt like a tropical secluded island had begun to sink in. We were in heaven - and we weren't about to leave without a fight.

We spend the next day snorkelling and whilst most people ooohed and ahhed at the array of fish - the crystal clearness of the water or just the overall feel of the place we were busy taking photos - and lots of them - not all that flattering - of the "people fish". We probably could've spent hours doing the same things over and over; that was until we discovered the ability to bomb off the roof of our boat. All the while probably annoying the other twenty people who had (un fortunately?) been religated to our boat.

When I say that the beaches were white - I mean it. The sand was so fine it was like powder - the annoying kind that just doesn't brush off no matter how hard you try. Evidently it also sticks to camera lenses - luckily enough it was only my waterproof camera I had with me at the time - a quick rinse later and we'd be sorted.

With what I would like to call sadness - but moreso it was stubborness- in our hearts we had to make our way - solemnly back to Stone Town to catch the ferry that would once again deliver us back to the hustle and bustle of Dar. Another night at a campsite that proved to be a little to close to escape the 430am wake up by prayer call. Luckily - we had to be up about 5am anyway and with long and/or tedious drives ahead we all knew that sleep would not evade us once back on our beloved and ever faithful truck.

We sail away and I use sail loosely - the seas were rough and actually quite horrid - I was one of fortunate few to not be paralysed by sea sickness from Zanzibar, all of us making the silent promise to return. The upside; there always is one isn't there? Is that upon leaving for Dar - we all know we are a day closer to the Serengeti. There is still a buzz of excitement on the truck.

I know that you are probably teeming with jealousy right now - so I will offer you respite for the time being. It's another early start for us tomorrow so honestly I am glad to be signing off here.

Please make sure you water the plants!

-Erinzy.

Ok, so maybe I have been a little slack - maybe people are wondering where I have been - or perhaps even pondering my fate - did she really get eaten by hippos in the great Zambezi?? Well to play the role of Captain Obvious - obviously not!

Since I last wrote - many many things have changed, I've visited one of the seven wonders of the world, been attacked by African Killer Bees, Partied, Relaxed, Swan in the impressive Lake Malawi - and as I type am again sitting beachside (lakeside?) of the aforementioned lake.

Let's start from the start...

Victoria Falls - AH-MAZING!!! I would highly recommend to anyone that is venturing to this part of the world that they set aside a day to just enjoy - take some time out to sit at the top of the falls - immerse yourself in the true natural beauty this world has to offer. I personally went for the more adrenalin filled approach - I bungeed, swung and zip-lined my way across the gorge. The views were amazing, the adrenalin rush kept me going through my last night at Jollyboys...

Bidding adieu to Jollyboys was done by a group of us in true fashion - upon discovery that we could in fact supply our own spirits -even within the bar! We had a night on the town - if that's what you can call it and in the morning there were a few (not many and not mine!) sore heads!

I had a down day following this amazing event filled day - I visited the Livingstone General Hospital Paediatric Ward where I got to spend some time playing with the absolutely amazing children. The staff were lovely and I think they appreciated having some time off the entertaining themselves! My overland tour was to start the next day - hence the not doing so much. I spend my first night in a tent - albeit this is a tent of luxury - a bed, electricity - the works really!

I am loving "Africa Time" -which has for me been somewhat exasperated by the fact that my travel clock lasted all of two days - I'm blaming the heat - and I never ever wear a watch!

After a somewhat lazy day in town I venture out to the Waterfront - which well and truly lives up to it's name and offers a specatacular vantage point from which to watch the famous Zambezi Sunsets. I am here to start my Overlanding tour - to meet my group and settle in...

Bonus of the group is that there is only 9 of us in it - as opposed to the possible 24 - this may not mean much to most but to us - it's extra space on the truck, extra lockers to store our gear (junk we have accumulated), extra mattresses and the space to just generally spread out and relax. All in all there is 3 Aussies, 2 Kiwis, 3 from England and 1 American. Our first night was great fun - the original 6 members (they left 18 at the Falls) were so welcoming, it's nice - we were all instantly included.

The next day - technically the first day of our tour we head back into Livingstone - we had all been to the falls and decided a little more culture was on the cards. I've suggested that we go to Da Fusion so they can all sample the local Zambian Food.

The journey commences...

Sitting on the truck and there's no hope of writing as it's way, way too bumpy!! It feels as if Jacob is driving down the road as fast as possible - and hitting every single bump along the way. The 8 hour drive today has seen us pass through some currently barely arable country. There are seemingly fires everywhere - "controlled burning" = though we rarely see a controller. The sides of the roads are charred from earlier fires - that have left only patches on brown running this way and that like scars.

We pass through many towns - and the easily recognisable "tourists" attract the attention from the locals - particularly children who run waving towards us - even though we are not stopping!

The day earlier - being our first day on the road turn out to be somewhat entertaining - if not hair raising. We travelled from Livingstone to Kafue River where we are meant to go on a river cruise then to a camp. We were all happily playing with the local kids - a game of soccer and a few rings of rugby when everyone went yelling and screaming running past us. Turns out there was a hive of very angry bees - African Killer Bees nonetheless- that had been disturbed and were headed our way!

I kid you not - they're scarier than any of the wasps we have back home! Most of our group came out unscathed. a few of us took a hit - I myself had a few stings on my head and legs but remained for the most part - unharmed. Another in our group was stung multiple times and was a little worse for wear by the time we found him.

Stranded by the roadside we flagged down Chantal and Jacob who gallantly came to our rescue. All our sleeping gear, day packs and camera bags still sitting by the dock awaiting our return to board the boat. A quick decision is made to forego the boat cruise and river camp as the risks of another attack are too high.

Dousing himself in god-knows-what and stating "It's okay, my dad was a bee keeper" Jacob also rescues all our gear - with a few casualties - my sunglasses included!

We stay the night at Eureka Bush Camp/Farm- I was already intrigued by the name but when I discover the amenties block is Bruce and Sheila - I can't help but wonder where the Australian influence has come from!

We arrive as a result of the bees at Lake Malawi a day early - none of us will be heard complaining. The lake is incredible - to be able to sit and stare out over the waves crashing onto the beach to the horizon - it blows your mind.

It's the first place that has made me miss home ever-so-slightly - perhaps it's the beach - beautiful yet slightly cold - the simple things! It is again the sheer beauty of nature that overwhelms you. When we arrived the water was a sparkling blue and now as the sun begins to disappear behind us it's calming to sit here and watch the waves roll in.

After an eventful few days, it really is so nice ot be able to sit back and relax for a day - no driving - just the beach.

Just the way a holiday should be!

Thinking of you sometimes,

Erinzy

:-)

So it turns out I wasn't overthinking - but in a very un-reassuring turn of events, my gate guard forced open my lock within 5 seconds - it is good to see security is so efficient!!! As a result I would not recommend the use of TSA locks for those travelling around Africa - a heavy duty standard padlock - bought from home will prove a much better investment! Lesson learnt!

Had a great night last night - have found a friend in a Perthite (yep it's a word) named Red. We scoured the town for somewhere to eat that wasn't a pie! Found da fusion where we decided to indulge in some local Zambian fare. Nshima is the staple here - which is basically boiled maize meal (corn flour). This we had with boiled mushed up sweet potato leaves amongst other unidentifible goods and a village chicken- I swear the leg we got was off something else a lot larger than our chooks back home! All-in-all not an overly flavoursome feast but at least we can say we tried it at the very least.

After some R&R this morning - and a delicious muesili, banana, honey and yoghurt "breakfast sundae" I am off to Lubasi Children's home.
The children at the home are seemingly very well looked after. They each have responsibility for their own rooms, laundry, etc. They are very shy at first and it's a struggle to even get a smile let alone any words. Eventually they warm to us and begin to demonstrate their sports skills - both boys and girls enjoying a friendly game of football (soccer). Surprisingly it is the girls who seem to be dominating in the skills department - easily showing up the boys on many many occassions.

We hitched a ride back into town with the Welfare Services people who were there to take a couple children from the home - whose "relatives" had shown up. It was both joyous and sad for the children and for us to witness also. I asked Sylvia is she was happy to be leaving the home - she didn't really know how to answer. But the tears in her eyes were heart wrentching.

Tonight we went on a sunset "booze" cruise - $45 included dinner and all drinks (yes even spirits) - now that's my kinda cruise. Within two minture of launching we come across a herd of about ten elephants - I make the enviable statement of I have come here to see elephants - I can go home now!

The cruise was good fun with hippos and crocs further upstream. It was a good taste of what's to come for my three week overland trip - having joined a group that were already touring together - an aussie, a pom, a kiwi and a self pronounced yank - sounds about right for a tour!

Coming back into Livingstone we meet up with Willie and venture out for a 2nd dinner. We meet a local girl in the taxi "Thandi"- she was great fun. We taught her to jive whilst listening to cruisy jazz and indulging in more pizza and beer.

It's so nice to be able to kick back and relax and enjoy the surrounds of the backpackers - just to write and reflect.

Take Care,

Erinzy.

Taking a bus in Africa can apparently be a long and ardous task - this is not in relation to the distances travelled - more so that if you are on a timetable - do your research!!!

It was very quickly explained to me that most buses wait until full - as do trucks/taxis etc - which is fine and gives you a chance to meet some usually colourful locals - but if you need to be somewhere it may be a problem - best you leave ample time! From Lusaka to Livingstone it is recommended you use Mazhandu - they take bookings the night before and guarantee departures!!!

The trip itself isn't very spectacular, if anything it's a good opportunity to catch up on some z's and ward off any impending jetlag. The sleep however must wait as I am quickly introduced to a common occurence at the beginning of every bus/coach trip - we have an evangelist preacher on board for the first 10-15 minutes - needless to say it's entertaining!!! Throughout the almost 7 hour journey I share my seat with three different people. The first is Brooke (pronounced Brookie as English is literally a phonetically spoken language) she is quiest but like to ask questions every so often - probably the most entertaining of which was how much my fare was - upon supplying her with the answer 95,000 kwacha (approx $19 USD) she says she is amazed I get the same deal as the locals. An obvious advantage of this company - but also just goes to show there is an evident prejudice to perhaps "ripping off" foreigners.

The second was a man- Jacob, he was lovely and gave me a few pointers about getting around Livingstone and avoiding the hassles of almost everyone having something to sell me. He also gave me a few pointers as to where to eat - and happily obliged me when I asked how safe - take a comrade with you where you can he says - great confidence in his own people! He thought I was strange for travelling by myself - but that of all the travellers he met going it alone - over half were Aussies - it has to say something about us..... right?!

The third was Luchianda - she slept - so I availed myself to the same.

Upon arrival in Livingstone - and loading myself up with my pacsks - I realise this is the first time I have had to carry everything myself! Many taxi drivers offered me a lift - but suprisingly enough - I knew where I was headed. In sweltering heat (ok so about 28-29 degrees) I walked up-hill (a slight incline) to find Jollyboys, which is where I am now.

There is again a pool and a welcoming bar - I am sipping on Mosi Lager - the only local brew - which after a thorough taste test last night of Zambian, Zimbabwean and Namibian brews - this comes out on top!

I've been shopping - and for about $8 I have drinks, snacks, some pasta for dinners and fresh fruit. Banana's are only about 50 cents each - so I indulge!

I was dutifully escorted around by "Bruno" a young man from one of the villages nearby - and for only a packet of chips and about 30,000 kwacha ($6) I saw it as a good deal.

Quote for the evening - from Willie a South African - "Don't stand still for more than five minutes in Africa - something or someone will try to eat you!"

I have to also add at this point that I do not like TSA locks! First I forgot my purpose bought locks back in Oz, purchase one at the airport and within a day have left it in Lusaka! Now at Jollyboys I purchase another - and now I can't open my locker - instead I go get a beer - perhaps I am overthinking!!

Hope you're all having a brilliant time - sorry there is no photos.... I didn't exactly plan ahead efficiently and my card reader is at home!

Catch you later,
Ez

20/8/2011 Sitting at Melbourne International Airpot waiting to board a flight - the first of many - this one to Bangkok.

Already stories from revellers whose vocal chords ahve been lubricated by the brews at PJ O'Briens are filling the departure lounge. Big plans, safari's, all night parties, beaches and of course more drinks. When one turns to ask why I am headed to Thailand, I simply reply - "Just on my way to Africa." A slightly stunned silence greets my response - and I am suddenly aware of just how odd to those groups of guys and gals travelling together - I must seem.

After further discussions it has been established that I am none other than a gutsy chick - to that I just laught and say - I just want to live life.
Inhibitions out the window and confidence at the fore - I am ready to embark on this journey and embrace everything it has to offer.

Having made it through security and customs with nothing more than a "have a great trip", my checked luggage was under and the over compensating meant my hand luggage was over. A quick switcheroo and all the pens and pencils are still on their way with me! Now I only have to hope that after many airports, different airlines and planes - my luggage needs to make it to Lusaka...

Sitting on the plane - I have scored a window seat with extra leg room - I'm only about 5ft5 so there is a large irony in this fact. I glance out the window (mental note nearest exit is behind me - and over the wing!!) I am flying with the Rolls Royce of engines - literally!

It ended up being a somewhat uneventful trip - no-one else in my row meant I could sprawl out and just relax - counting down the hours til I can finally say I'm in Africa... Arriving at Bangkok and Addis Ababa in darkness meant I had a fairly good comparison - if only visually - of just how vastly different our wold is.

The first thing that hits me about Ethiopia is the fact that sitting at my boarding gate - there is nothing - I mean sure there's the stock standard "airport chairs" and the planes not metres away awaiting it's patrons - but aside from that - I am looking out into nothing!! Not another building in sight.

I had thought being on a red eye and arriving still in darkness - I may've been lucky enough to get some colour to start my day - however fate would have it that it's cloudy and overcast. I instead sit and marvel at the presentation - the pride- particularly of the women - many of whom I reconise from the red eye.

They are elegant and sophisticated - yet at the same time (from the brief moments spent refreshing ourselves in the bathrooms) boisterous.
The colours I am experiencing in not only the clothing and materials I am currently surrounded by, but also in the personalities is overwhelming. It's these moments when you realise how easy it would be to travel in a group - just to simply turn to someone else and say - WOW!

21/8/11
I have arrive after nearly a day and a half of seeing the insides of airports and planes...

What strikes me the most about Lusaka is that realistically it is what I had envisioned. It would probably be cliches to say this - but I had to laugh as driving out of the airport I witness people loading into the back of a hilux. The women here really do carry things on the top of their heads and more often than not a child in a sling across their backs - utter strength - it's not wickedly hot but even the fittest of us would break a sweat bearing their loads.

My lift from the airport never arrived so I finally relented and allowed an exceptionally friendly taxi driver come to my aid. Turned out to be the best thing I could've done!! After a quick calculation - I was only paying about $2 more to use the taxi that I had intended to pay for my transfer. My guy however took me to a local shopping mall where the exchange rate was better (I think he just wanted to go get an icecream!) - then to bus station to book my ticket to Livingstone - all for the same fare!!!

The driving around Lusaka is not unlike home - for those of you who understand this - no indicators, roundabouts are practically a free-for-all and stop signs simply mean slowing down to roll through an intersection - I'm feeling safer than ever! Who said it could be dangerous???

As I write this (and yes I mean write - sometimes you will get a few days at a time simply because there isn't a great deal of internet access) I am sitting poolside at Lusaka Backpackers... The soccer is on (who to cheer for?!), the beer is cold - life doesn't get much better!

I going to continue enjoying the local brews - myself and Jess (a fellow Aussie Traveller - from Winch of all places) are aiming to try every beer in the fridge by the time the night is out!

Cheers!

Erinzy.